The Jesus Nut

Towards the end of last Summer I began to delve into the world of traditional, or trad climbing. Up until now, my only experience with trad has been following and cleaning. Someone else possessed all the knowledge and took care of the heavy lifting. This year I am finally ready to start learning for myself.

In addition to some personal instruction, practice and playing around with placing gear in cracks, I have been doing a lot of reading. One helpful book has been, “Climbing Anchors,” by John Long and Bob Gains. This book is loaded with helpful information ranging from anchor building, gear placement, even the knots you will need. It also covers topics such as the different types of trad gear, fall forces and understanding the direction of pull when falling. Studying this book will help prepare me this Spring to start the journey of trad climbing. Who knows, maybe I’ll get courageous enough to attempt a multi-pitch climb by the end of the Summer. (Let’s not get ahead of ourselves!)

As my study continues, I may take sections of this book, and other things I have learned, to focus on different trad and anchor building components for future blogs. Hopefully the information I am learning will prove beneficial to a few of you. Maybe it will inspire you to also broaden your climbing into the world of trad.

The importance of the “Jesus Nut” gets talked about a lot in the book. I found the principles and importance of this particular gear placement interesting, and extremely helpful. The term’s origin comes from the Vietnam war. The “Jesus Nut” was actually a giant, single stainless-steel nut that attached the main rotor blades to the body on the Bell UH-1 Heuy helicopter. If that nut was to fail, “the next person you see will be Jesus.”

For multi-pitch trad climbing, the term “Jesus Nut” is used to describe the first, most crucial piece of gear placement, just above the belay anchor. Considering the force of a lead fall, the fact the belayer is also attached to the same anchor, and the anchor it is your last line of protection, a leader never wants to fall directly onto the belay anchor. Instead, at the start of the next pitch, the lead climber should place a bomb proof piece of gear as soon as possible. This way, the force of an early fall will be absorbed by the “Jesus Nut,” rather than your anchor system.

Due to the importance of protecting your belay anchor, the “Jesus Nut,” is your most important gear placement. The gear used is not necessarily a nut. You can place whatever type of gear will provide the best protection. The term “Jesus Nut,” is used to stress the life or death significance of placing that first, crucial piece of gear when starting your next pitch. The term demonstrates the necessity of protecting your anchor system from absorbing the full impact of a fall. In the event of a direct fall, if your anchor does manage to hold you, you will most likely end up with an injured belayer. If there is no “Jesus Nut”, and your anchor system fails on a multi-pitch climb, the next person you meet will be Jesus.

There are so many things to consider when learning trad. Soon after beginning this journey, I realized how accustomed I have become to fixed bolts and chained anchors. There is not a lot to think about when everything is already set up for you. I also realized that simplicity can give a false sense of security. I also realized that my lack of knowledge could one-day place me an a potentially dangerous situation. In fact, it has a few times.

As I read and continue to study, I find myself a little overwhelmed by what I do not know. I wonder if I am capable and smart enough to really figure all of this out, and remember all there is to know. The whole thing can be a little overwhelming.

An intelligent heart acquires knowledge, and the ear of the wise seeks knowledge. – Proverbs 18:15

For we are his workmanship, created in Christ Jesus for good works, which God prepared beforehand, that we should walk in them. – Ephesians 2:10

Have you ever felt overwhelmed by a new challenge? Have you ever stood at the base of a mountain, looked at your circumstances and thought, this is just too hard, I am not capable, I am not smart enough? I have felt those feelings many times in my life. I have also let those questions prevent me from even trying.

The next question is, what are you to do with those feelings? Do you give up before you even get started? Or, do you trust that God has your back and a plan for your life? Do you trust that He will be with you and equip you for the journey ahead?

Then Moses said to the LORD, “Please, Lord, I have never been eloquent, neither recently nor in time past, nor since You have spoken to Your servant; for I am slow of speech and slow of tongue.” The LORD said to him, “Who has made man’s mouth? Or who makes him mute or deaf, or seeing or blind? Is it not I, the LORD? “Now then go, and I, even I, will be with your mouth, and teach you what you are to say.” – Exodus 4:10-12

Looking back on my life, I can see where God has always proven faithful. He has show me time and time again that in Christ, I can overcome any challenge and climb any mountain before me. With that knowledge, I press forward with this next challenge, even though I am a bit overwhelmed with all that is involved, and how much I have yet to learn.

Stay tuned, the journey is just beginning. I have some goals that I feel called to accomplish this year. Leading a trad climb is only a small part of a bigger picture, and investment into the Chick Climber ministry. As I wait for the Spring to arrive, I continue to study, train, and prepare with eager anticipation. With God working through my life and guiding me along the way, I cannot help but succeed.

Now may the God of peace, who through the blood of the eternal covenant brought back from the dead our Lord Jesus, that great Shepherd of the sheep, equip you with everything good for doing his will, and may he work in us what is pleasing to him, through Jesus Christ, to whom be glory for ever and ever. Amen. – Hebrews 13:20-21

Source: Climbing Anchors, By John Long & Bob Gains